Oasis in the Desert

by David Baxter, Editor, NBD

There really is water in the desert--you just can't always see it. The Havasu River basin in northern Arizona collects rain water from hundreds of miles of surrounding desert. It flows underground through the soft rock and sand of the Coconino Plateau until it reaches the dense bedrock of the Havasu River. From there, paradise unfolds as these rushing waters plummet hundreds of feet over a series of majestic waterfalls.

Welcome to one of the most beautiful and remote areas of the western Grand Canyon. Deep within the towering red sandstone walls of Havasu Canyon lies Supai Village, accessible only by foot, horse, or helicopter, and home to about 450 Havasupai. It's easy to see why their tribal name means "people of the blue-green waters." Crystal clear pools of vibrant turquoise water churn at the base of the three spectacular waterfalls spread over a two-mile stretch of Havasu Creek near the village. Heavy concentrations of suspended calcium carbonate (from the limestone bedrock) reflect in the sunlight to give the water its surreal color.

Havasu Falls is 120 feet high and is the most often photographed of the falls. It's an ideal spot for picnics and swimming. Mooney Falls, at 196 feet, is actually higher than Niagara Falls and has the canyon's most popular swimming hole at its base (about 70 degrees year round). Navajo Falls is 75 feet in height.

The eight-mile trek to the village is considered moderately difficult, and all hikers must obtain approval from the Havasupai Tourist Enterprise ahead of time. Keep in mid that you are on the Indian Reservation. The trail starts at the Hualapai Hilltop parking area where you begin a steep, 1.5 mile winding descent into the canyon. Once at the bottom, it's a flat, but long 6.5 mile-hike along the canyon floor. The trail eventually widens; and cotton woods, willows, and other lush vegetation offer shelter from the harsh sun. As you push on, the path joins up with a small creek that leads into Supai Village. The waterfalls lie a couple of miles beyond the village, but the road of the falls echoes through the canyon long before you see their beauty. Havasupai Tourist Office--928-448-2121 or 928-448-2141.